Well I have arrived in Zanzibar. Great to back here.
The contrast with Ethiopia is stark. People here are also poor, but they are much less destitute. In Ethiopia, we saw many disfigured people and people often begged with a particular amount of aggression. Children would block your path with their hand extended in our faces. One woman actually reached out and touched Liad's hair (which made every ounce of blood in my body boil). Zanzibar, however, is different. I still stand out (though now I am at least tanned). Everyone says hello (or Mambo/Jambo) to me. If I don't answer (Poa) they say it again and again. If you ask anyone a question (ex, where is the bus, or dalla-dalla, to a specific place) they will escort you all the way. They won't let you go anywhere else whether you want to or not. Then they will ask you for money for their effort. It gets annoying, but it is much more pleasant than in Ethiopia where we saw young children everywhere begging. All together, Zanzibar is a happier place, there is music in the streets everywhere and though it is poor, people seem to manage. At least in the main city, Stone Town (which has been likened before to Gaza....I wouldn't know).
My first day was eventful. I arrived at around 3am and went to the hotel to get some sleep. I got up at around 8am because there is a mosque near to by head and the call to prayer got me up early. Breakfast was at the hotel (included) and consisted of a scrambled egg, some fresh mango juice (yum) and some coffee (necessary).
I went to the hospital, though it was Sunday, and tried to track down someone I knew. there was a nurse there who I had met last time I was here who spotted me and said hello. She said that no one was around and I should come the next day.
I then hopped onto a dalla dalla and headed to a forest called Jozani. It was about 1.5 hours to get there. Dalla dallas are pickup trucks that have had a roof put over the flat-bed and a few benches put in. They drive at what feels like a million miles an hour and just when you think you are more crammed than you have ever been, they add another person. You have to duck to not bang your head so women usually give their infant to someone sitting near the back of the truck, they the climb on, then everyone passes their child from person to person. The babies don't seem to mind. Without fail, they always sit on the bus and stare at me (the hairy - I have a beard - funny looking Mzungu - white-guy). I usually make a few faces (Liad can attest to that...I have this thing where I like to make faces at babies... usually the people around find it funnier than the baby).
the forest was amazing. I got there and hopped off the bus and sat down under a little straw hut with a table and few chairs to write down some thoughts. About 5 minutes later, it started raining. Like Africa raining. It was POURING! I was stranded under this little dry oasis and was just in awe of the scene. I took some pictures but nothing can capture it.
Eventually it stopped raining and I headed into the jungle. It was hot and humid and I was completely alone on the trail. All I could hear were birds chirping and insects buzzing and monkeys from above jumping from tree to tree. I was scared shitless, but having a nice time and I enjoyed being alone with my thoughts in such a raw environment. I took a million pictures of monkeys. Up to this point, the only monkeys I had ever seen were either in the Toronto zoo, or stuffed and sitting on my bed. These were totally comfortable around people. They walked right next to me and pretty much smiled for pictures. I swear that one even said cheese.
After Jozani I waited by a speed bump for either a car or a dalla dalla going back to Zanzibar town. The nice thing about speed bumps is that everyone has to slow down so there is just enough time to ask the driver if he is going to stone town.
Back in the main city, I had a quick bite to eat and then headed to bed so I could start my next day.
Day 2: I woke up, had a quick breakfast and headed to the hospital. I was met by a man named Abdullah who showed me around the hospital. I asked him to start with surgery, that is where I will spend the rest of the week. I was very excited to be there and name dropped just about everyone that I knew. I went to check their library to see that the books had arrived from Israel (some had, not all).
They said I needed scrubs and Abdullah said he could get them for me (and made it sound like it was going to be a big task for him). I stepped out of the office to pay for the time here and when I came back the scrubs were on his desk (that was fast) and he asked me to give him $10 for the effort. I said no. I draw a distinction between being in need of money and taking advantage of people. He had the flippen scrubs in his desk drawer. Besides, I was in the process of sending 40 boxes of books to their hospital library AND I drove the hospital superintendent and 3 nurses to Jerusalem to Al Aqsa mosque while they were in Israel for Save a Child's Heart. I didn't think it was fair to ask for $10 for scrubs which I am going to return, so I refused.
I had to check out of the hotel and I was waiting to be shown to an apartment. I had my fingers crossed that it wasn't going to be horrible. A guy named Suleiman picked me up (originally from Oman) and took me to the apartment. His family owns a few properties on Zanzibar island and neighbouring Pemba island (which I will try to go to on the weekend). The apartment is fantastic. There are other medical students here (all German) but the space is big and everything locks so I feel like my things will be safe here. Best of all, there is a nice big kitchen and fridge and even a washing machine. He gave me a special price...whatever... but I am only paying $10/night so that was just fine by me. I will be very comfortable here. Best part is that they have a computer with free internet so I can do all the blogging I can handle (hence why this message is so bloody long).
My plans/intentions:
I would like to have some good experience here learning about medicine in this country. More importantly, I would like to repeat the project that we just did in Ethiopia in 2 years here in Zanzibar. I would still like to see this site become one of the sites for students at my school for their fourth year and eventually I would like to see a Tanzania stream at my school where students can start in their first year to learn about medicine in Tanzania in preparation for their fourth year elective, which I will hopefully facilitate in 2 years time.
I will meet with the hospital director in a couple days and submit to him a proposal and if he likes it, I will let me school know as well and we can take it from there.
The guy who showed me the apartment, Suleiman, has family on Pemba island and they have an organization called Zanzibar Childrens Fund for orphans on Pemba. I am going to try to head out there on the weekend and meet them and see what they are about...Maybe they can fit into my plans.
So that is all for now. I am going to go and explore the town a little bit more. It's boiling hot here. it's the end of summer in the Southern hemisphere (sorry Nat, I know how cold it is there). I am over dressed but I will be in scrubs for the next few weeks so that should give me some breathing room.
lots of love.
Will
The contrast with Ethiopia is stark. People here are also poor, but they are much less destitute. In Ethiopia, we saw many disfigured people and people often begged with a particular amount of aggression. Children would block your path with their hand extended in our faces. One woman actually reached out and touched Liad's hair (which made every ounce of blood in my body boil). Zanzibar, however, is different. I still stand out (though now I am at least tanned). Everyone says hello (or Mambo/Jambo) to me. If I don't answer (Poa) they say it again and again. If you ask anyone a question (ex, where is the bus, or dalla-dalla, to a specific place) they will escort you all the way. They won't let you go anywhere else whether you want to or not. Then they will ask you for money for their effort. It gets annoying, but it is much more pleasant than in Ethiopia where we saw young children everywhere begging. All together, Zanzibar is a happier place, there is music in the streets everywhere and though it is poor, people seem to manage. At least in the main city, Stone Town (which has been likened before to Gaza....I wouldn't know).
My first day was eventful. I arrived at around 3am and went to the hotel to get some sleep. I got up at around 8am because there is a mosque near to by head and the call to prayer got me up early. Breakfast was at the hotel (included) and consisted of a scrambled egg, some fresh mango juice (yum) and some coffee (necessary).
I went to the hospital, though it was Sunday, and tried to track down someone I knew. there was a nurse there who I had met last time I was here who spotted me and said hello. She said that no one was around and I should come the next day.
I then hopped onto a dalla dalla and headed to a forest called Jozani. It was about 1.5 hours to get there. Dalla dallas are pickup trucks that have had a roof put over the flat-bed and a few benches put in. They drive at what feels like a million miles an hour and just when you think you are more crammed than you have ever been, they add another person. You have to duck to not bang your head so women usually give their infant to someone sitting near the back of the truck, they the climb on, then everyone passes their child from person to person. The babies don't seem to mind. Without fail, they always sit on the bus and stare at me (the hairy - I have a beard - funny looking Mzungu - white-guy). I usually make a few faces (Liad can attest to that...I have this thing where I like to make faces at babies... usually the people around find it funnier than the baby).
the forest was amazing. I got there and hopped off the bus and sat down under a little straw hut with a table and few chairs to write down some thoughts. About 5 minutes later, it started raining. Like Africa raining. It was POURING! I was stranded under this little dry oasis and was just in awe of the scene. I took some pictures but nothing can capture it.
Eventually it stopped raining and I headed into the jungle. It was hot and humid and I was completely alone on the trail. All I could hear were birds chirping and insects buzzing and monkeys from above jumping from tree to tree. I was scared shitless, but having a nice time and I enjoyed being alone with my thoughts in such a raw environment. I took a million pictures of monkeys. Up to this point, the only monkeys I had ever seen were either in the Toronto zoo, or stuffed and sitting on my bed. These were totally comfortable around people. They walked right next to me and pretty much smiled for pictures. I swear that one even said cheese.
After Jozani I waited by a speed bump for either a car or a dalla dalla going back to Zanzibar town. The nice thing about speed bumps is that everyone has to slow down so there is just enough time to ask the driver if he is going to stone town.
Back in the main city, I had a quick bite to eat and then headed to bed so I could start my next day.
Day 2: I woke up, had a quick breakfast and headed to the hospital. I was met by a man named Abdullah who showed me around the hospital. I asked him to start with surgery, that is where I will spend the rest of the week. I was very excited to be there and name dropped just about everyone that I knew. I went to check their library to see that the books had arrived from Israel (some had, not all).
They said I needed scrubs and Abdullah said he could get them for me (and made it sound like it was going to be a big task for him). I stepped out of the office to pay for the time here and when I came back the scrubs were on his desk (that was fast) and he asked me to give him $10 for the effort. I said no. I draw a distinction between being in need of money and taking advantage of people. He had the flippen scrubs in his desk drawer. Besides, I was in the process of sending 40 boxes of books to their hospital library AND I drove the hospital superintendent and 3 nurses to Jerusalem to Al Aqsa mosque while they were in Israel for Save a Child's Heart. I didn't think it was fair to ask for $10 for scrubs which I am going to return, so I refused.
I had to check out of the hotel and I was waiting to be shown to an apartment. I had my fingers crossed that it wasn't going to be horrible. A guy named Suleiman picked me up (originally from Oman) and took me to the apartment. His family owns a few properties on Zanzibar island and neighbouring Pemba island (which I will try to go to on the weekend). The apartment is fantastic. There are other medical students here (all German) but the space is big and everything locks so I feel like my things will be safe here. Best of all, there is a nice big kitchen and fridge and even a washing machine. He gave me a special price...whatever... but I am only paying $10/night so that was just fine by me. I will be very comfortable here. Best part is that they have a computer with free internet so I can do all the blogging I can handle (hence why this message is so bloody long).
My plans/intentions:
I would like to have some good experience here learning about medicine in this country. More importantly, I would like to repeat the project that we just did in Ethiopia in 2 years here in Zanzibar. I would still like to see this site become one of the sites for students at my school for their fourth year and eventually I would like to see a Tanzania stream at my school where students can start in their first year to learn about medicine in Tanzania in preparation for their fourth year elective, which I will hopefully facilitate in 2 years time.
I will meet with the hospital director in a couple days and submit to him a proposal and if he likes it, I will let me school know as well and we can take it from there.
The guy who showed me the apartment, Suleiman, has family on Pemba island and they have an organization called Zanzibar Childrens Fund for orphans on Pemba. I am going to try to head out there on the weekend and meet them and see what they are about...Maybe they can fit into my plans.
So that is all for now. I am going to go and explore the town a little bit more. It's boiling hot here. it's the end of summer in the Southern hemisphere (sorry Nat, I know how cold it is there). I am over dressed but I will be in scrubs for the next few weeks so that should give me some breathing room.
lots of love.
Will
Will
ReplyDeleteI cannot tell you how much I have enjoyed your blog comments. It feels as if I was there with you. Such a lovely adventure to make memories forever.
Tanzania sounds very interesting. I am mad at myself for not having arranged to spend a few days with you there-but that is how it is and we will be seeing you soon in Israel.
As with most travel, when you are away so many interesting things occur but at home it seems as though nothing is changing. Actually Mum and I were just at her meeting in San Francisco. One of the best lectures was on the mental health of Tchaikovsky. The lecture was made more interesting as it was given by a piano master who played pieces of his music as he talked about his depression etc.
Otherwise I just did my thing while Mum attended. To be even more mundane we are going to paint the cottage for the summer and rework the TV room to be more fun and more modern. Liad next time you visit we hope you will join us at the cottage (and bring Will).
Will you have done great work in Ethiopia and we are all very proud of you. You have met interesting people and all three of you have made an important contribution to their health.
I am excited in anticipation of hearing about your experiences.
Love Dad